Dryer Not Heating Properly? Steps to Get It Working Again
Is your dryer spinning but not getting hot enough to dry your clothes? That damp laundry pile keeps growing because no matter how many cycles you run, your dryer just isn't heating up properly. Don't worry - with some basic troubleshooting and DIY repair steps, you can get your dryer heating up in no time.
The first step is confirming that your dryer does indeed have a heating issue. Check the power supply, inspect the heating element, clear any airflow obstructions, and ensure the right settings are enabled. A thorough diagnosis will set you on the path to fixing the problem.
Check Power Supply to Dryer
Start troubleshooting by verifying your dryer is getting the proper 220-240V power supply it requires to generate heat. Here's what you need to check:
- Electrical breaker or fuse box - Ensure the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. Reset it if needed.
- Power cord connections - Check that the power cable is firmly plugged into the outlet and back of the dryer.
- Voltage at outlet - Use a multimeter to test voltage. If low or none, you have an external power issue.
Restore any faulty connections before the dryer can heat up. You may need an electrician if dealing with a home wiring or breaker issue.
Inspect Power Cord and Connectors
Closely examine the power cord and terminals looking for damage. Loose, frayed or burnt wires can prevent sufficient power from reaching the heating element. Tighten any loose connections or replace damaged power cords.
Verify 240 Volt Power Supply
Set your multimeter to AC voltage and probe the contacts at the outlet while the dryer is running. There should be a reading between 220-240 volts. No voltage means there is an external power supply issue or tripped breaker.
Inspect Heating Element
The heating element transforms the electrical current into heat. Continuity issues can cause it to stop working properly. Here's how to test it:
- Unplug dryer and access heating element housing
- Check coils and mounting brackets for damage. Replace if worn out.
- Use a multimeter to test for continuity. No beep means it's blown.
If the heating element is faulty, replacing it with an identical part should get the dryer heating again. Be sure to disconnect power first!
Locate the Heating Element
Heating elements are located inside the back, bottom or top panel. Consult your model's service diagram to find the exact location. Carefully remove panels and wiring to access.
Assess Element Condition
Look for visible signs of damage like cracks or worn out coils which indicate it needs replacement. Next, use the continuity test to confirm.
Ensure Proper Airflow
Restricted airflow prevents hot air from properly circulating to dry clothes. Here are areas to check and unblock:
- Vent hose - Detach and inspect length for lint/obstructions
- Exterior vent hood - Open and close to confirm it isn't stuck
- Lint filter and ducts - Clean out trapped lint and debris
After clearing any clogs, reattach the vent hose and run a test cycle. Proper airflow is key for generating enough heat to get moisture out of wet laundry.
Check Dryer Vent Hose
The flexible vent hose expels hot air from the dryer outside. Detach the clamp to remove and inspect for lint accumulation or obstructions that restrict airflow. Use a wire brush to scrub the hose clean before reattaching.
Clean Out Lint Filter and Ducts
Lint can quickly build up inside the filter, ductwork, and even the dryer cabinet. Use a vacuum hose to suck out any accessed lint. Prevent future buildups by remembering to clean the lint filter after each drying cycle.
Test Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse shuts off power to prevent fires if the dryer overheats. Here's how to check it:
- Locate on or near heating element housing
- Use multimeter probes to check for continuity
- No beep means the fuse is blown and needs replacement
Carefully inspect nearby components for what caused the fuse to blow. Ensure proper airflow before installing the new replacement fuse.
Locate Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse sits inside a housing attached to the heating element or is mounted to the blower wheel housing. Check your dryer's wiring diagram to find the exact location. It's often white plastic with two spade terminals.
Testing Continuity
Set multimeter to test continuity by touching the probes together to confirm it beeps. Then hold a probe on each thermal fuse terminal. The fuse needs to be closed for power to reach the heating element. No beep indicates blown fuse.
Diagnose Cycling Thermostat
This thermostat turns heating off and on to regulate interior temperature. Continuity issues can cause heat failure.
- Access, disconnect and isolate the thermostat
- Evaluate contacts condition. Replace if worn, pitted or fused
- Use a multimeter to test it while toggling contacts
If faulty, replacing the cycling thermostat restores the heat on/off safety mechanism so the dryer doesn't overheat.
Isolate and Test Continuity
Refer to the wiring diagram to access and detach the cycling thermostat wires. Then test continuity across the contacts while manually triggering them to open and close. No beep during any state means it's faulty.
Fix Igniter if Applicable
If your gas dryer uses a glow igniter to light the burner, it could be the reason heat stopped working if defective. Fixing steps include:
- Shut off gas valve and unplug power before disassembling
- Detach igniter and inspect. Replace if cracked or worn out
- Use multimeter probes to test for continuity
Faulty glow igniters are often an easy fix to restore burner operation so the dryer reheats properly again.
Pull the gas igniter out from the burner assembly. Look for a white-hot glow when operating. Dark, cracked or warped ceramic igniters need replacement. Next, switch your multimeter to test continuity and probe the igniter terminals.