What to Do if Your Dryer Isn't Heating Properly

Has your dryer suddenly stopped drying your clothes properly? Do your wet clothes come out still soaked after a full cycle? If your dryer feels cold inside and fails to dry your laundry, lack of heat is likely the issue. But what causes a dryer not to heat up and how can you diagnose and fix the problem?

When a dryer isn't heating, it usually signals an underlying issue interfering with the drying process. By methodically troubleshooting different components and functions, you can pinpoint the cause and take steps to get your dryer heating properly again.

Check if the Dryer is Getting Power

The first thing to check with any appliance failure is whether the device is getting power. For an electric dryer, verify:

• The dryer is plugged securely into a working outlet
• The home circuit breaker or fuse powering the dryer hasn't flipped or blown
• The power cord isn't damaged or frayed anywhere along its length
• Use a multimeter to check outlet voltage to ensure consistent 120-volt supply

If there are no issues found with the power supply, you'll need to dig deeper into the dryer's specific heating components. But for many homeowners, a tripped breaker or damaged power cord ends up being the culprit behind a no-heat situation.

Inspect Power Cord and Retention Plug

Especially for older dryers, worn power cords get brittle and crack over time. This can create electrical shorts, sparks and tripped breakers. Visually inspect the full length of the power wire for cracks, scorch marks or crimped areas. Wiggle the cord at the dryer connection point and feel for looseness.

Retention plugs anchor the power cord to the dryer's chassis. But vibration can loosen this critical junction over years of use. Verify the plug fits snugly and shows no signs of material failure. Electrical tape is not sufficient for repairing cracked plugs.

Reset Circuit Breaker and Test Voltage

When no other appliances or lights share the affected circuit, dryers tend to trip breakers from overheating components or short circuits. But if multiple devices powered by the same circuit breaker are out, you may have a panel issue needing professional electrician diagnosis.

Use a multimeter to check outlet voltage before resetting any tripped breaker switches. Consistent 120V power is crucial for proper dryer function. Loose or corroded circuit panel connections can cause low or fluctuating voltage.

Inspect the Thermal Fuse

One safety component responsible for regulating dryer interior temp is the thermal fuse. This tiny device sits in-line along the heating circuit and cuts power if airflow drops or internal temps rise too high.

Over time, a blocked ventilation hose, failed thermostat or chronically overstuffed loads can cause excess heat buildup that trips this fuse. Verify thermal fuse condition using a continuity test. No continuity means it's blown and requires replacing.

Locate the Thermal Fuse Inside the Dryer Cabinet

In most dryer makes and models, the thermal fuse mounts along the heating duct just inside the cabinet. But location varies across brands, so consulting the service diagram inside your machine's cabinet is recommended. Common mounting locations include:

• Rear panel ductwork
• Housing near the motor
• Either side of the burner assembly (gas models)

Use a bright worklight to visually trace wiring connections from the fuse to heating components until you find it. The fuse itself resembles a quarter-inch plastic button or dial-shaped piece along those wires.

Testing Thermal Fuse Continuity with Multimeter

After locating your dryer's thermal fuse, disconnect power and use a digital multimeter to diagnose properly. Set your multimeter to continuity test mode and touch the test probe tips to each fuse wiring terminal.

A functioning fuse will produce a clear continuity tone or near-zero resistance value. If you get no tone or OL on the resistance screen, that likely means the fuse is blown and must be replaced.

Diagnose Heating Element Issues

If the thermal fuse tests functional, suspect heating element failure next. This critical part converts electricity into heat within the dryer to dry clothing. But normal operational wear plus lint buildup over time eventually can cause burnout.

Visually Inspect the Element for Damage

Electric dryer heating elements resemble wide ribbons of coiled wires protected by dense metal housings. After disconnecting power, remove the element cover panel to access it inside the machine. Look for:

• Dark scorch marks, warping, cracks in the wires or housing
• An unusual baked-on residue from chronic overheating
• Accumulation of compacted lint inside the housing

If the heating element doesn't look unusually worn but still fails subsequent testing, hidden internal breakage of the coil's fine heating wires is likely the cause.

Use Multimeter to Test Element Continuity

Set a multimeter to its lowest resistance setting, usually 200 ohms. Touch the test probe tips to the copper connector tabs or terminals at either side of the element while installed.

Quality continuity should emit a tone signaling a closed, uninterrupted circuit through the many yards of internal coil wiring. Any OL, infinity symbol or resistance value significantly greater then one to several ohms points to inner wire breakage.

Replace a Defective Heating Element

Once diagnosed, replacing a faulty heating element is usually straightforward. Review installation instructions for your dryer's make and model but the general process involves:

• Unplugging the power cord and conduit wiring connections
• Removing element housing screws to access it
• Meticulously cleaning lint debris from the mounting cavity
• Inserting the new replacement heating element
• Reconnecting wiring harnesses and conduit lines
• Testing operation before reinstalling housing panel

For gas dryer heating operation, heating elements require the same diagnosis process but involve a igniter instead of an electric coil part.

Examine the High-Limit Thermostat

Another pivotal safety component regulating internal dryer heat levels is the high-limit thermostat. This heat-activated switch disables power flowing to the heating element if temps inside the drum exceed safe thresholds.

Faulty thermostats unable to properly gauge temperature are a common source of heating problems. The continuous cycling also wears out the switches over time.

Attempt Resetting Tripped High-Limit Thermostat

When excess interior heat triggers the high-limit thermostat, it cuts power to heating elements and requires manual resetting once cooled. Locate the button along the thermostat housing or wiring and press until an audible click.

If the thermostat trips repeatedly when testing heating operation, this signifies it cannot accurately regulate temp or another component is overheating the dryer interior.

Testing the Thermostat Switch with a Multimeter

Separate from reset testing, use a multimeter to check thermostat switch continuity directly while powered off. Switch the multimeter to continuity test mode and touch probes between the common and normally closed contacts.

This should emit a solid continuity tone if contacts inside the device are intact. Lack of continuity or OL error on the multimeter points to physical damage of the contacts. In either case, replacing the thermostat is needed.

Professional Replacement Recommended

Because home clothes dryers contain multiple high-limit thermostats, attempting to identify which one is specifically faulty without proper HVAC-grade test instruments is difficult.

The heating element coil, exhaust temperature sensor and drum seals all have dedicated thermostats that require specialty testing equipment. Hiring a professional technician to replace the defective component is best.